Picture
Foggy Morning On The Steens D8701
We were honored this week with being named 'Featured Artist of the Week' on the website, Fine Art America that we use to sell and market our images.  This website has what  is called 'Groups' for different subjects that focus on many different topics.  It also makes it easier for visitors to the site to locate images centered around what you might be looking for. 

This group is a fun group as it focuses not on a single subject but instead on the photographers, hence the name 'Old Masters'.  It's not what it appears to be but is instead....well, I'll let their 'About the Group' explain:

"YOU MUST BE 60 YEARS OF AGE OR OLDER TO JOIN THIS GROUP, which is established to promote the work of mature artists OVER SIXTY.
All others are welcome to look (and buy!), but please do not join this group if you are under 60 years of age! "


After clicking on this link scroll down a bit on the Fine Art America web page to see the featured artists:  http://fineartamerica.com/groups/old-masters--photographers-and-digital-arts--5-a-day.html?tab=overview

Come take a peek at one of our latest Kudos and while there click on one of our images from this link.  That will take you to our images where you can browse around.  Or once in our images you can also click on the 'Gallery' tab above the image to look at specific albums.

Enjoy and I would love to hear any and all feedback.  It helps us in our growth! 

Thanks

Dotty & Wes


 
 
There has always been an issue with the images that we all love to share on Facebook and many other social networking internet sites being used without our permission.  Sometimes even sold by others for their own profits.  While I've never liked putting a big ole ugly copyright stamp on my images I've found a bit of a work around as displayed in this image. 
If you would like to use this method I've given step by step instructions for you to create your own action to do this below:

  1. Open an image with a portrait format as mine above is.
  2. From the Window Tool Bar at the top of your Photoshop CS  screen drop down click on Actions.  This will open the Actions box.  (This step will create an Action that you can have Photoshop add your copyright automatically)
  3. Click on the 5th icon at the bottom of the Actions palette which looks like a folder with a box in the bottom left hand side.  It will bring up a box called 'New Action'.  I named this Copyright Portrait and then click on 'Record'.  Now each step that you take will be recorded into this new action.
  4. In your Toolbar on the left hand side of your screen right click on the Icon that is the 2nd Icon above the magnifying glass.  You want to bring up the Custom Shape tool.  The icon looks like a weird star with rounded corners. 
  5. In the Tool Bar at the top of the screen Click on the 3rd icon in the box next to that weird star.  If you scroll your cursor over this icon it is called  a Fill Pixels icon.
  6. Still at the top of the screen click in the drop down arrow to the right of the word Shape to bring up the drop downs.  From the list towards the bottom you will find the copyright symbol.  Click on that to make it active.
  7. You need to have your layers palette open.  Create a new blank layer by clicking on the 2nd to the last icon on the bottom of the layer palette next to the trash can icon.
  8. Click on the Foreground color swatch in the Toolbar on the left hand side of your screen and select a light grey for your Foreground color.
  9. To place the 'C' copyright shape to the image press the 'Shift' button on my keyboard.  While holding this key down click on the C in the actual tool bar at the top of the screen.  It will look like there is nothing on the screen but while still holding the shift button down drag the cursor that you moved the 'C' to the image downward and to the right.  This is how you will size the 'C'.  The release both the shift and cursor.
  10. Now click on the Layer Style icon at the bottom of the layer palette which is the 2nd icon that says fx.  Click on   Bevel and Emboss from the drop down list and then click on OK.
  11. Now use the Type tool from the left hand side Toolbar making sure the color watch still is the light grey color.  Placing the text bar on the bottom of your image type the word Copyright and your business name.  I like to use the font Casmira. 
  12. Repeat the Layer Style as listed in #10 above.
  13. In both the 'C' and the text layer change the layer mode at the top left hand side of the layer palette box from Normal to Hard Light.  This will make the stamps transparent.
  14. Change the 'C' copyright layer to about 30 to 35, keeping the stamp visible but not so much that person viewing the image can't get a good look.  But making it hard for someone else to remove the stamp.
  15. On the text layer I keep the opacity higher as it's on the bottom of the image and I want my business name to be more visible.
  16. The last step is to stop the action that we are creating.  To do this you click on the first icon that is simply shaped like a box at the bottom of the Actions palette.  
  17. Once completed you will want to flatten the layers and I usually run the Image Processor from the File tool named Scripts for my web images.  But that will be another blog on another day.  There is nothing like Photoshop automation.
Now any time you want to stamp your portrait oriented image you can run this action.  You should run these same steps for a landscape oriented image naming it Copyright Landscape. 

You might have to move the copyright symbol or your text layer to fit the image but you will have the layers ready for you to make your adjustments.

Hope you found this helpful!

 
 
So, it's been over a year now since I had the honor to photograph the fabulous show, Cavalia.  I had never done a bog but have posted many pictures on my Facebook page.  If you have never seen this show and have the opportunity to do so by all means do it.  You will be rewarded with one of those memories you'll never forget.  They have now taken their show to Australia which has their opening at Brisbane on March 6th, 2013.  Visit their website for more information and make sure you click on all the tabs to get a feel for the beauty of the horses and masterful talents of the riders. 
http://www.cavalia.net/en/cavalia-show

This slideshow below while it has many  of my favorite images from my shoots at the Portland Oregon show in 2011 and Seattle Washington show in 2012 is but a small amount of my images.  If you would like to see even more images check out my Facebook page to view the album links listed below:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150504452337541.365322.183908382540&
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150474729397541.361340.183908382540&
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150431168882541.354250.183908382540&
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150361159562541.345858.183908382540&
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150353877492541.344967.183908382540&
I hope you enjoy as much as I enjoyed experiencing the show in person.

 
 
Picture
Clearing at Half Dome--Yosemite National Park
Death Valley, Yosemite & Mono Lake in One Vacation is possible!  The images in this blog was from a trip we made in April
several years ago.  Please see the link at the bottom of
this blog as to why I suggest you go in February


Seeing these three beautiful places in California in our 2-week vacation was our goal.  But what time of the year seemed to be most favorable to us?  We settled on the first 2 weeks in April.  Here are some of the things we considered during our planning:

If we went later than April, Death Valley will be very hot.  So we made this our 1st destination and even with that the temperature peaked at 97° in Badwater.  So going in February the weather would be awesome.   But another thing to consider for going in early April is that the spring flowers can be spectacular with some luck and the right weather conditions being on your side.  So many decisions to be made!

Picture
Zabriske Sunset-Death Valley National Park

To include Mono Lake into this trip we drove up Hwy 395 from Death Valley to Lee Vining which is the nearest town to Mono Lake.  We had one snowstorm overnight but by mid-morning it had melted.  Again in February you'll probably see more snow.  By the way, the tufas at Mono Lake are way cool covered in snow.  One more down side to February is missing a visit to the great ghost town of Bodie as the road will not be passable yet. 


Picture
Mono After The Storm--Mono Lake, California
The road over Tioga Pass into Yosemite Valley from Lee Vining is only 77 miles does not open until mid May.  This causes a detour to a pass that is open, meaning about a 6 hour drive.  This was our route:
  • Drive North on Hwy 395 to Minden Nevada.
  • Take Carson Pass (Hwy 88) to Jackson California
  • Then take Hwy 49 South to Big Oak Flat
  • Hwy 120 which will then take you into Yosemite.
If we went earlier than April, Yosemite would still be quite frozen.  Even in mid April we had two overnight lows of 15° and 19° and one snowstorm overnight which melted by early morning.  This time of the year also means we escaped the summertime crowds and saw the waterfalls flowing throughout the valley.  So Yosemite in February means you need to be ready for possibly a lot of snow and very cold temperatures. 

But here is my MAIN reason to suggest a visit in February.  You see there is this crazy, beautiful photographic event at Horsetail Falls that happens only around mid to late February.  Conditions have to be just right, enough snow melt for water to be coming over the cliff, and enough of a break in the clouds at just the right time around sunset for the light to hit the falls to see what looks like lava flowing where Horsetail Falls should be.  I've never seen it but it's on my bucket list of things to photograph.  And as I've not seen it myself I have no images I can share.  But here is a link from Yosemite Park to visit and see why it's a must see!  http://www.yosemitepark.com/horsetail-fall.aspx

We had a fabulous trip in April but I would bet you would have a 'WOW' trip if you go in February.  I know the next time we go I'll be aiming for a February trek!
 
 
Manual Settings  This is quickly becoming my favorite shooting mode as long as the lighting is even and not constantly changing.  I try for an aperture of F8 to as wide open as possible depending on how close the subject is.  And the shutter no slower than 750th of a second, the faster the shutter the better.  Unless you are going for motion blur and panning then a 30th or 60th of a second can give some fun results.  I try to keep the ISO as low as possible like 200 or maybe 400.  
The secret to using manual is to keep an eye on the needle on your Canon camera viewfinder.  If it is in the middle your exposure should be 'right on'.  Changing either the aperture, shutter or ISO will move the needle either to the right of middle which will lighten your image or to the left of middle to darken your image.

Aperture Priority (AV)    I still like this mode a bit more than using a manual setting.  Sadly I must admit I very often forget to look at the needle in my viewfinder when in manual.  Then especially with wildlife you'll miss a great shot because you haven't changed your settings when you've gone into a forest after being in a wide open meadow.  
So with that being said I like shooting in AV priority mode with an aperture wide open like at 4 or 5.6 as long as I have plenty of light.  I again try to keep the ISO as low as possible like 200 or 400 to get fast shutter speeds. With those wide open apertures you get that great background blurring and sharp subjects that you have locked your  focus on.

Shutter Priority (TV)   I will use TV when the light has gotten very dim and I can't trust AV to stop the action enough to keep the blurring under control.  Try to steady the camera if you aren't using a tripod or monopod by leaning against something.  Depending on how fast your subject moves a 500th should work if the subject isn't a real fast mover.  If you are trying to shot a bird or galloping horse a 1,000th is really needed to get a sharp image if you are steady.   What you will find in TV is you might be getting shots but they will be very dark.   To avoid this you can either set your ISO higher or even try the automatic ISO setting.  I never used this automatic ISO setting as I didn't want my camera to be shooting at one of those astronomical ISO settings.  But since I've upgraded my Canon 7D with the new firmware that I blogged about earlier I was able to set the maximum ISO to an acceptable level.  I still like to set my own ISO but that is always subject to change, I never thought I would like to shoot in manual mode either.  So I never say never.

And always, always check your LCD often no matter what mode you shoot in to see if you are getting the results you want.

AND ONE LAST TIP:  I never ever believed all those photographers who said 'Turn off the image stabilization when shooting fast moving action in the burst mode'.  I really thought they were crazy.  I fought this for a long time until I tried it.....the results were many more images in focus than ever before. 

Remember, I'm by no means an expert at this but I keep on working at it.  Some of it might be helpful in finding your photographic
 
 

If you have visited our website or the website Fine Art America where we sell our images you will know I love to shoot horses.  They are majestic and beautiful animals which I enjoy trying to capture.  So if you enjoy horses click on the link below that says simply 'horses photos'  and see some great photographer's wonderful shots along with mine: 

 
 
After an initial unsuccessful attempt to upload this new firmware to my 7D I have tried it again and succeeded. 
My two main reasons for wanting this upgrade was to have the ability to set a maximum ISO when I select automatic ISO.
The other item that had me intrigued was the increase in burst rate.  It of course varies in what you are shooting, JPEG vs RAW.  From a quick test I found I can now take 27 shots within 6 seconds before it stops shooting to process.  It seems excessive but in some cases, like an eagle swooping in to snag a duck it would be awful for the camera to stop shooting just as the catch is made.   


So, here is the link for the firmware:    http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/support/consumer/eos_slr_camera_systems/eos_digital_slr_cameras/eos_7d#DriversAndSoftware

  1. From this web page select your Operating System and Operating Version from the drop downs.
  2. This will open more selections below these boxes where you will want to click on EOS 7D Firmware Version 2.0.0
  3. After clicking on the 'I Agree-Begin Download' to the usual Disclaimer the download begins to load to your computer.
  4. After the quick download you will have the folders open on your computer which will have a .PDF with instructions and a .FIR file.
  5. Don't try to open the .FIR (my first mistake when trying to do this upgrade).  Put a formatted Compact Flash card in your computer.  Then simply drag/copy this .FIR file to the card.  I used a 4gig.
  6. Wait for the file to be completely loaded onto the card.  With a full charged battery in your 7D put the card into the camera.
  7. From your Menu screen navigate to the last tool that looks like a wrench.  The last item on that screen is the current Firmware version. 
  8. Click on that and it will say 'Current Version is _ _ _ _ _ .  Update.  Click on the OK button.
  9. It will walk you through the next steps....sorry I didn't write them down but like any camera/computer it will hold your hand and walk you gently through the next 2 or 3 steps.  The last step the camera will tell you to not touch anything while it loads.  It will show you a percentage screen and it does not take too long.  
  10. VOILA, you will now be upgraded.  Scroll through your new options on the menu screens & have fun.  I am waiting for the next upgrade which will make it a full sensor.  LOL

 
 
I have talked with many people just starting out and wondering how to set up their camera to get images they can be proud of and are what they had envisioned in their mind.  I've been taking digital photos for over ten years and am still learning.

Here is my advice:
  • Read as many magazines, books and articles online in regards to what you are going to be shooting.  Whether you are going to try shooting birds in flight, portraits of people or waterfalls do a search on the web or get your hands on some books or magazines that can give you that information for camera settings or post editing with whatever photo editing program you have.
  • Go to photographic online forums and see what others are posting.  I've used websites like www.fredmiranda.com/forum/ and http://photography-on-the.net/forum/.  There are many out there.  When you see an image you really like post a comment.  Ask how they set their camera or what post-processing methods they used.  Most photographers are very happy to talk about their photography and love to help others.  When I say 'most' keep in mind there will always be some people that are not as friendly.  Please don't let these types make you feel you will never learn enough to be an awesome photographer.  Remember they were newbies at one time too and didn't have all the answers either.  It's only easy if you know how to do it.
  • For each shooting situation there are many different ways to set your camera and no steadfast rules for those settings. Another tip...shoot like a maniac, check what you've just taken and adjust your ISO, shutter speed, aperture or exposure compensation.  Then check your images again.  Remember the lighting might be changing from minute to minute so check your images often. At the shoot that I took this photo of the beautiful Alejandro I took over 700 images. Maybe 20% were OK, 10% were good and maybe 1% were WOW.

With that being said here is what I did to get this shot.

This was early evening at an indoor arena with East and West open areas. There was not any spot lights and I did not use a flash, just the light from the low sun. I was shooting with a Canon 7D and Canon 28-135mm lens using shutter priority at 160th second. I kept changing from ISO 400 to 800 and either spot metering or partial metering. Also I kept changing the exposure compensation to allow more light in but making sure I kept a shutter speed fast enough to stop the action.

Now go out there and shoot. It's the best way to learn and it's so danged much fun...especially when you get the results you were hoping for. 
 
 
I used Adobe Photoshop CS5 for this tutorial so there may be some steps that will vary. Many of the photo editing tips I will show have been self-taught so we can be learning together. Please always feel free to make comments if you give this technique a try for us all to learn together.
Here I am blending two images with different focal points to make one image with sharpness front to back using CS5. I knew there was a process to do this even though I've never had great success at it, but I still shoot many images with merging them later in mind. Always a good thing to keep in mind, even if you can't do it yet, take the images for when you have found the way to create the magic. Memory is cheap.
I have recently found CS5 has a very easy process to make this happen. It is most useful on subjects with no movement. These images above are not a perfect subject but I included a step to help align the subjects.
These two images above were shot on an overcast day and in the shade. A good setting to cut my teeth on as there was a slight breeze and low light preventing a small aperture.Camera settings:
  • ISO 200, 1/50 second at f.11.
  • It always helps to have a camera set on a sturdy tripod.
  • Manual setting with the first image focusing on the foreground and the second focusing on the background.
CS5 Post-Editing Steps:
  1. In Camera Raw, select the images you will be using. To do this select your first image by clicking on the thumbnail. Then while holding the Ctrl button select each thumbnail to include it. In my case I had only 2 images but you can use several images with varying focal point front to back.
  2. Select Tools>Photoshop>Load Files into Photoshop Layers.
  3. If as in my example you know there was movement in the subjects, select both layers by holding down the Ctrl button and clicking on all layers.
  4. Select Edit>Auto-Align Layers which will bring up a dialog box where you click on the Auto button, then OK.
  5. Now to work the focus blend magic you select Edit>Auto-Blend Layers selecting the Stack Images button and clicking the Seamless Tones and Colors box. Then click OK.
This will show you the complicated masking and blending that CS5 will do behind the scenes for you. It's not always perfect so you might need to go into the masks and make some manual adjustments by using the brush tool and painting with black (to conceal) or white (to reveal) areas that aren't quite right. But you will get the idea the more you play around with it.


AND HERE IS THE FINISHED PRODUCT OF 'FOCUS BLENDING'

 
 
Picture
Autumn's Last Hurrah D0932 Non-Orton image. An okay image with some nice colors.
Picture
Autumn's Last Hurrah D0932 Orton image. The same image as above with a digital Orton Technique applied.

Here is the step by step procedure to give your photos the painterly look that you see on this sample.  I use Photoshop CS5 so these instructions may need to be adjusted a bit according to your system.

  1. Duplicate image (image>duplicate).  Close original
  2. Lighten the image: Image>Apply Image.  In the dialogue box that comes up, change blending mode to ‘screen’ & opacity to 100%
  3. Duplicate this overexposed image: Image>Duplicate
  4. Blur this 2nd image: Filter>Blur>Gaussian Blue..in the dialogue box that comes up use Radius setting of 15 to 50 pixels.  The higher the number the blurrier the photo & the more ‘painterly’ the image.  
  5. With both image copies visible, select the move tool.  Hold down ‘Shift’ key and drag & drop the blurry image onto the sharp one.  Don’t release shift key until you release the mouse or they won’t line up.
  6. In layers change the blend mode from ‘normal’ to ‘multiply’.  Chg opacity to alter effect
  7. Flatten the layers and make any additional adjustments in Photoshop.          

This artsy touch doesn’t seem to be something for every image but works really well with scenery and some nature shots.  It certainly can make some nice images even more stunning.  Enjoy.
 

    Our Flickr Photos

    Author

    Name:
    Wes & Dotty

    Occupation:
    Photographers at Heart

    Favorite Camera:
    Canon  60D & 7D

    Favorite Subjects:
    Scenery, horses, action & events.

    Favorite Vacation Spot:
    Everywhere we’ve been has it’s own special beauty and some places like Yellowstone National Park and the Desert Southwest can be unlike anywhere else.  But to name a favorite is hard as we’ve not seen everything, yet.  

    Personal Motto:
    “Just about everywhere you look is a great image if you look closely”


    Archives

    May 2013
    February 2013
    January 2013
    November 2012
    September 2012
    August 2012
    March 2012
    February 2012
    December 2011
    October 2011

    Categories

    All
    Canvas
    Commerce
    Domain
    Email
    Fine Art America
    Framed
    Gallery Wraps
    Greeting Cards
    New
    Outage
    Prints
    Registrar
    Shopping
    Website
    Weekly
    Wesdotphotography